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DIY Adirondack Chair Plans: A Weekend Cedar Build With a Curved, Comfortable Back

The Adirondack chair defines summer relaxation. This cedar build uses simple joinery and a curved fan back for real comfort.

The short answer

An Adirondack chair is built from five main assemblies: two angled seat stringers, two front legs, a fan of back slats, a back support and two wide arms. Cut the stringers and back slats from cedar 1×6s, assemble the legs square to the stringers, fit the seat slats, then the back, then level the arms. Use stainless screws and waterproof glue, and finish with an exterior oil.

  • Clamp paired parts together and shape them at once so both sides match
  • Check legs are square and arms are level before final screws
  • Stainless steel screws won’t stain or rust in cedar
  • Build a cardboard or plywood template for the curved parts
Skill levelIntermediate
Time6–8 hours
Cost$60–$120 in cedar and hardware
Tools you’ll need
Jigsaw or band sawDrill/driver and countersink bitCircular saw or miter sawRandom orbit sanderSpeed square and levelClamps
Jump to our gear picks
On this page (12 sections)
  1. Build specs
  2. Materials
  3. Main parts (starting dimensions)
  4. Step 1: Cut the stringers
  5. Step 2: Attach the front legs
  6. Step 3: Seat slats
  7. Step 4: The fan back
  8. Step 5: The arms
  9. Flat back vs curved back
  10. Finishing for the elements
  11. Comfort upgrades
  12. Beginner, intermediate, pro

With its deep, reclined seat, wide arms built to hold a cold drink and a tall fan back, the Adirondack chair is the most recognisable outdoor chair in the world. Store-bought versions are often flimsy plastic or very expensive hardwood. Building your own in cedar gives you the best of both: a chair that’s comfortable, durable and made to fit you.

Think of it as a giant puzzle: five sub-assemblies, each simple on its own, that come together into something iconic.

Build specs

WoodWestern red cedar
DifficultyBeginner–intermediate
TimeA weekend (6–8 hours)
JoineryWaterproof glue and stainless screws

Materials

  • (5) 1×6 × 8' cedar boards, plus a short 2×4 for back supports
  • 1-1/4" and 2" stainless steel deck screws
  • Waterproof wood glue
  • Exterior penetrating oil

Main parts (starting dimensions)

PartQtyApprox. length
Seat stringers (angled sides)233"
Front legs220"
Arms228"
Back slats532" (trimmed to an arc)
Seat slats6–7Width of the seat

Adirondack designs vary. Treat these as starting dimensions, make full-size templates from cardboard or thin plywood, and dry-fit before cutting the remaining parts. A template also lets you build a second matching chair quickly.

Step 1: Cut the stringers

The stringers set the seat angle. Mark the profile on a 1×6, including the gentle curve at the back. Cut one with a jigsaw, then use it as a template for the second. Clamp them together and sand as a pair so they’re identical.

Step 2: Attach the front legs

Glue and screw the front legs to the stringers. Check they’re exactly square with a speed square — tilted legs make the chair rock.

Step 3: Seat slats

Install the seat slats across the stringers with about 1/4" gaps for drainage. Round the front edge of the front slat for comfort behind the knees.

Step 4: The fan back

  1. Lay the five back slats side by side with 1/4" spacers between them.
  2. Use a string and pencil as a giant compass to draw an arc across the tops.
  3. Cut the arc with a jigsaw and sand smooth.
  4. Attach the slats to the lower and upper back supports.

Step 5: The arms

Round the front corners of the arms and set them on the front legs and the back support. Use a level — the arms must be level to hold a mug.

Sand and clamp

Flat back vs curved back

Flat backCurved back (this design)
Lumbar supportMinimalExcellent
DifficultyVery easyModerate
Build timeAbout 4 hoursAbout 6 hours

Finishing for the elements

Sand to 150 grit — finer sanding can stop exterior oils soaking in. Apply a penetrating exterior oil for a warm glow without a plastic film, and refresh it every year or two. Left bare, cedar weathers to silver-grey and still lasts well.

More outdoor finishing advice in our outdoor wood guide.

Comfort upgrades

  • Contour the seat slats slightly with a spokeshave or sander.
  • Add a matching footrest using the same stringer angle.
  • Shape the arms with a wider rear section for a phone or book.

Beginner, intermediate, pro

Beginner: build the flat-back version first and focus on square legs and level arms.

Intermediate: the curved fan back and contoured seat.

Pro note: build in white oak or teak with mortise and tenon joints at the leg-to-arm connection — see our mortise and tenon guide. Shape curves on a belt and disc sander for crisp, fair edges. Pair it with our cedar planter plans for a complete patio set.

Questions woodworkers ask

What wood is best for an Adirondack chair?

Western red cedar is light, weather resistant and easy to work. White oak and teak also work well but are heavier and more expensive.

How many boards do I need?

Around five 1×6 × 8' boards plus a short length of 2× stock for supports, depending on the design. Buy one extra for mistakes.

How long does an Adirondack chair last outside?

Many years in cedar with stainless hardware, good drainage gaps and periodic re-oiling.

Do I need a band saw?

No. A jigsaw cuts the curves well; sand the edges smooth afterwards.

Gear from this guide

Titebond
Titebond III Ultimate Wood GlueBest for cutting boards
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DeWalt 20V Max Cordless Drill
DeWalt 20V Max Cordless DrillTop Pick · $99.00
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DeWalt
DeWalt 5-inch Random Orbit SanderBest first sander
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Irwin
Irwin Quick-Grip One-Handed Bar ClampsBest value
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Penofin
Penofin Marine Oil FinishRecommended Tool
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Written by

Michael Wood

Founder of WoodCraft Corner. Fifteen years at the bench, hundreds of projects, and still learning something new every week.

We only recommend gear we would use ourselves, and we always disclose affiliate links.

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