DIY Adirondack Chair Plans: A Weekend Cedar Build With a Curved, Comfortable Back
The Adirondack chair defines summer relaxation. This cedar build uses simple joinery and a curved fan back for real comfort.
An Adirondack chair is built from five main assemblies: two angled seat stringers, two front legs, a fan of back slats, a back support and two wide arms. Cut the stringers and back slats from cedar 1×6s, assemble the legs square to the stringers, fit the seat slats, then the back, then level the arms. Use stainless screws and waterproof glue, and finish with an exterior oil.
- Clamp paired parts together and shape them at once so both sides match
- Check legs are square and arms are level before final screws
- Stainless steel screws won’t stain or rust in cedar
- Build a cardboard or plywood template for the curved parts
On this page (12 sections)
With its deep, reclined seat, wide arms built to hold a cold drink and a tall fan back, the Adirondack chair is the most recognisable outdoor chair in the world. Store-bought versions are often flimsy plastic or very expensive hardwood. Building your own in cedar gives you the best of both: a chair that’s comfortable, durable and made to fit you.
Think of it as a giant puzzle: five sub-assemblies, each simple on its own, that come together into something iconic.
Build specs
| Wood | Western red cedar |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | Beginner–intermediate |
| Time | A weekend (6–8 hours) |
| Joinery | Waterproof glue and stainless screws |
Materials
- (5) 1×6 × 8' cedar boards, plus a short 2×4 for back supports
- 1-1/4" and 2" stainless steel deck screws
- Waterproof wood glue
- Exterior penetrating oil
Main parts (starting dimensions)
| Part | Qty | Approx. length |
|---|---|---|
| Seat stringers (angled sides) | 2 | 33" |
| Front legs | 2 | 20" |
| Arms | 2 | 28" |
| Back slats | 5 | 32" (trimmed to an arc) |
| Seat slats | 6–7 | Width of the seat |
Adirondack designs vary. Treat these as starting dimensions, make full-size templates from cardboard or thin plywood, and dry-fit before cutting the remaining parts. A template also lets you build a second matching chair quickly.
Step 1: Cut the stringers
The stringers set the seat angle. Mark the profile on a 1×6, including the gentle curve at the back. Cut one with a jigsaw, then use it as a template for the second. Clamp them together and sand as a pair so they’re identical.
Step 2: Attach the front legs
Glue and screw the front legs to the stringers. Check they’re exactly square with a speed square — tilted legs make the chair rock.
Step 3: Seat slats
Install the seat slats across the stringers with about 1/4" gaps for drainage. Round the front edge of the front slat for comfort behind the knees.
Step 4: The fan back
- Lay the five back slats side by side with 1/4" spacers between them.
- Use a string and pencil as a giant compass to draw an arc across the tops.
- Cut the arc with a jigsaw and sand smooth.
- Attach the slats to the lower and upper back supports.
Step 5: The arms
Round the front corners of the arms and set them on the front legs and the back support. Use a level — the arms must be level to hold a mug.
Flat back vs curved back
| Flat back | Curved back (this design) | |
|---|---|---|
| Lumbar support | Minimal | Excellent |
| Difficulty | Very easy | Moderate |
| Build time | About 4 hours | About 6 hours |
Finishing for the elements
Sand to 150 grit — finer sanding can stop exterior oils soaking in. Apply a penetrating exterior oil for a warm glow without a plastic film, and refresh it every year or two. Left bare, cedar weathers to silver-grey and still lasts well.
More outdoor finishing advice in our outdoor wood guide.
Comfort upgrades
- Contour the seat slats slightly with a spokeshave or sander.
- Add a matching footrest using the same stringer angle.
- Shape the arms with a wider rear section for a phone or book.
Beginner, intermediate, pro
Beginner: build the flat-back version first and focus on square legs and level arms.
Intermediate: the curved fan back and contoured seat.
Pro note: build in white oak or teak with mortise and tenon joints at the leg-to-arm connection — see our mortise and tenon guide. Shape curves on a belt and disc sander for crisp, fair edges. Pair it with our cedar planter plans for a complete patio set.
Questions woodworkers ask
What wood is best for an Adirondack chair?
Western red cedar is light, weather resistant and easy to work. White oak and teak also work well but are heavier and more expensive.
How many boards do I need?
Around five 1×6 × 8' boards plus a short length of 2× stock for supports, depending on the design. Buy one extra for mistakes.
How long does an Adirondack chair last outside?
Many years in cedar with stainless hardware, good drainage gaps and periodic re-oiling.
Do I need a band saw?
No. A jigsaw cuts the curves well; sand the edges smooth afterwards.
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